Davide Cassenti

Davide Cassenti

Gentleman and Scholar Software Developer

Posts Tagged ‘georgia’

Destination Svaneti

Thursday, August 12, 2010

Svaneti is probably the most famous region in Georgia: whenever you ask someone here what to visit, they will definetly include it in the list; they would also add that it is the most beautiful and dangerous place in the country. Knowing this, the wish to visit the region has always been high and finally we managed to do it. The trip, however, seemed hard since the beginning: getting a plane is terribly hard – or at least, so it seems by calling people – and going from Tbilisi would be too expensive and tiring by hiring a car. With a mess in our heads, and with a lot of people warning us about the danger on Svaneti mountains, we finally found out what the best solution was: just taking a normal Marshrutka to Zugdidi, spend a night there and take another Marshrutka to the Svaneti capital Mestia. No need to get a 350 € tour, no need to rent a car, no need of anything: simple public transport would have allowed us to go in this mysterious place.

So we are three, me, Mzia and Zhana, ready to go: the good thing is that there are relatives in Zugdidi, the capital of Samegrelo region and the town where the Marshrutka to Mestia goes from; the even more good thing is that, despite it was late night when we arrived there, a traditional georgian-gaumarjos table was ready to welcome us in the region I like to define the Sicily of Georgia; the bad thing is that, as would happen in Sicily, the food is much, very very much; the worst thing, anyway, is the climate in Zugdidi: hot, hot and more hot, with an humidity probably higher than 100%. My sleep was anyway quite good thanks to the fan that they kindly gave me – as the guest – to refresh a little bit the room. In the morning is time to take the Marshrutka, which should take just 3.5 hours to get to destination.

Along the road I got a bit disappointed: there’s an huge reservoir in Samegrelo, a sort of big lake surrounded by mountains, but after that the panorama is not as good as I expected. It is indeed wonderful, but after my visit to Shatili last year I cannot say that is the best I’ve seen so far. Perfectly on time, about 5 hours later we finally arrive at our destination: Mestia, the capital of Svaneti. It looks like the guesthouse we booked is not in the center, but in the end of Mestia – which sounds like the end of the World: when the Marshrutka stopped in the center we felt like we jumped back in time, 50 years ago without any De Lorean at 88 mph. It was simply awful: I really can’t find any other word to describe the town – or village.

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Visiting Davit Gareji

Sunday, October 18, 2009

The day is started in the most awful way: trip planned and stomach ache cannot be room mates; bot me and Mzia were feeling bad in the morning, but we didn’t want to miss a nice trip: thanks to the holy medicines, we decided to face our destiny and go anyway, destination Davit Gareji. The monastery is a complex situated in the Kakheti region, on the border with Azerbaijan.

The first step of our trip is the big bus station, or marshutka station to be more precise, called Samgori, inside the capital: here we found a nice – at least we thought so – black marshutka that was going to go to Sagarejo, a town one hour far from our destination. From there, we would have taken a taxi to go to the monastery.

Our Black Marshutka

Our Black Marshutka

After a fast walk around the station-market to buy some food and water for the trip, we found our seats on the minibus and at 11am we started our trip. Now, I know I often complain about georgian driving, but it really seems that they find the drivers as a surprise in the Happy Meal®. They use to say that math can explain everything, but I really can’t understand how that marshutka was still alive. The life of a marshutka, as other car, depends on the use: if you hit a hole in the street, the life of your car becomes shorter. Let’s use some math:

Suppose:

h: holes in the street where the marshutka entered

K: a costant

L: life of marshutka in days

We will have, considering the number of holes tends to infinite in a georgian road and the driver was hitting ALL of them:

L = limh→∞ K/h

As far as I remember from my study, despite the value of K, the result is always 0; but the marshutka, even if slow and driven without any ability to choose the right gear, did its job perfectly. I am amazed. During the trip, also, Natia managed to get the drivier to bring us to the monastery, wait for us and take us back to Tbilisi for just 70 lari (we were 5): things begun to turn in the right direction.

The marshutka, that was a public transport ’till Sagarejo, was quite full of people, but after we left that town, it was all for us – with another friend who joined us there and in about one hour we reached Davit Gareji. The road to go there is really beautiful: the street is surrounded by hills, without trees and in beautiful autumn colors; they call it a desert and it really seems.

Panorama of Sagarejo

Panorama of Sagarejo

Davit Gareji is a complex built in the rocks, founded in 6th Century. The place was crowded, with many school children and their teacher explaining them everything about the place. It was really a surprise, after several kilometers without anything, to suddently see the monastery and so many people having fun and watching be beauty of the complex. We had a nice day there, visiting the monastery, then we went back to Sagarejo, where we decided to have a lunch.

Panorama from Davit Gareji

Panorama from Davit Gareji

Having lunch there was a terrible idea: we ordered some mtsvadi, the tasty meat prepared in Georgia, and some Megruli Khachapuri and they both were awful. Definetly, I would not suggest anyone to visit that place, unless for the funny translations in english they had on the menu: we were wondering why a pig was sucking, as well as what kind of cigarettes does a smoking sulguni like. But we didn’t investigate to much: at 5pm our black marshutka took us back to Tbilisi. Of course, without avoiding again all the holes in the streets.

Smoking sulguni

Smoking sulguni

A day at the lake

Saturday, October 10, 2009

Tbilisi has been little cold in the previous days, but yesterday the sun was going to come back in the sky; waking up quite late in the morning, without any plan in our minds, we decided to have a walk in the market to buy something. Not far from our house is Machakhela, probably the best place where you can eat good georgian food for very few lari and, since I didn’t have breakfast and it was already lunch time, we had a stop there for a fast snack.

We asked informations about how to reach the Lilo Market, which seems to be the bigger and less expansive ever, but we realized we needed more than half an hour to get there, so we opted for the always nice one in Vagzlis Moedani. We didn’t find anything special there, except couple of presents, so we went back home with just few stuffs.

In the afternoon, Natia came to meet us at our house: thinking where we could go, I suggested to have a walk to the Turtle Lake, a small lake over one of the hills that surround the city. There are two ways to get there: a long, boring road with a bus or a more interesting funicular that starts from the city and goes up in few minutes; we decided to take the second, for just 50 tetri (less than 0.25 €).

Tbilisi's Funicular

Tbilisi's Funicular

Despite the uglyness of the funicular, Natia informed us that, after it falled down once, they decided to check it every month; no need to write our last wishes then, the trip was much less scary than you can imagine before the ride: in less than 5 minutes we arrived at our destination. The view up there is simply fantastic, as usual when you go up around Tbilisi.

Panorama from Turtles' Lake

Panorama from Turtles' Lake

We were feeling some more cold than down in the city: the place is anyway very beautiful, nice views and few pubs where you can spend some time with your friends. Just for information, be careful when you ask to add some milk to the tea, since it costs more than the tea itself. We had to go back to the city before 7pm, when the funicolar stops working: however it was already dark and I decided to make another panoramic photo of Tbilisi before getting on the cabin.

Panorama from Turtles' Lake at night

Panorama from Turtles' Lake at night

Me and Anna spent the rest of the evening in a nice restaurant in Vake, taking some food we liked and trying something else we never heard before: we discovered it was a very good plate of meat and potatoes, really delicious. Too much food, however, which turned into a terrible stomach ache who made me sleep very badly at night and didn’t allow me to go out of the town as I planned today.